Lima the Elsewhere Retreats way
Before the Sacred Valley, we land in Lima—where bold flavors and layered moods set the tone.
Barranco
Barranco is Lima’s most creative neighborhood—where light filters through bougainvillea, walls double as canvases, and the day starts with fresh bread and ends in a courtyard with natural wine. Sandwiched between the sea and the city’s colonial past, it’s a place that feels lived-in, expressive, and full of detail. For travelers looking for a walkable, character-rich base before heading into the Andes, Barranco is the place to begin.
Central
At the top of nearly every “best in the world” list, Central is less a restaurant and more a topographic map of Peru’s ecosystems. Chefs Virgilio Martínez and Pía León build their menu like a layered landscape—tubers pulled from high-altitude soil, scallops kissed by cold currents, Amazonian pollen dusting over cheese from the Andes. Every dish is precise, but never cold. It’s food as geography—and geography as experience.
Siete
Set inside a tall Barranco casona, Siete moves with ease between Peruvian and Asian influences. The menu leans seasonal and unexpected—razor clam tiradito with ginger and vermouth, sweetbreads on apple purée, and pumpkin ravioli that feels like fall. The cheesecake is worth its own line.
Beik Café
A quiet corner spot with good light, Beik does croissants as well as anywhere in the city. Mornings stretch long here over carrot cake, camu camu cold brew, and crusty focaccia. There’s no performance—just well-executed food and a sense that the people behind the counter care about what they’re making.
Demo
From the chef behind Mérito, Demo brings the same sharp attention to detail to a more casual space. The arepa benedicta—corn cakes with poached eggs and light hollandaise—is an easy favorite, and the falafel salad with sanky vinaigrette hits all the right notes. If the cruffin de flan is still warm, don’t hesitate. Demo is a Barranco café that makes slow mornings worth it.
Miraflores
Miraflores is Lima’s cleaner-lined, Pacific-facing counterpart to Barranco. Think: tidy parks, breezy sidewalks, and a skyline that breaks open over the cliffs. It’s easy to get around, full of solid restaurants, and offers a bit more polish without losing personality. For Elsewhere guests looking for the best food in Lima or a grounded first stop before heading to the Sacred Valley, Miraflores is the reset button.
Maido
Maido is Peru’s Nikkei masterclass—where Japanese technique meets coastal ingredients with restraint and imagination. The uni chirashi arrives like a still-life: sea urchin, rice, and just the right amount of heat. The tiradito with rocoto and citrus walks a perfect line between clean and complex. It’s quiet brilliance in every course.
Huambra
Huambra brings the Amazon to the city—loud, earthy, and warm. The tostones are crisp and playful, the paiche (a river fish) arrives either grilled or swimming in coconut curry, and the juane huambra (rice, meat, and spices wrapped in a bijao leaf) tastes like a trip. For anyone curious about Amazonian cuisine, Huambra is a sensory, ingredient-driven place to start.
Rafael
Set in a restored republican house in Miraflores, Rafael balances precision with ease. The interior design of the space is layered and open, with a strong contemporary art collection that holds the room together without trying too hard. The food moves between familiarity and invention: every dish is built with care, nothing wasted or overdone. The bar is worth a seat of its own. Rafael is a constant in Lima, and on the world’s best lists—for good reason.
Next on the Menu
In our next post: where to stay in Lima. Think design-forward guesthouses in Barranco and coastal calm in Miraflores—each echoing the feel of these meals.